Destinos: A mindful travel guide for Isla Holbox, Mexico in 2023
Sustainable travel doesn’t have to be compromised on quality or expense
Story written by Lola Méndez
Off the coast of Quintana Roo, Mexico, sits the tiny Isla de Holbox, which means “black hole” in Maya. The idyllic island is a paradise, with long stretches of white sandy beaches, amazingly clear emerald water, and lush lagoons with abundant wildlife. There are no paved roads—villagers and visitors alike leave their sandals behind to walk barefoot on the sandy paths.
It’s no surprise that the island is on the cusp of becoming the next hotspot in Mexico. Tourism and the money it brings are always exciting opportunities—but the local community is also wary of becoming the next Tulum, which suffers from over-tourism and mismanagement of waste. To avoid a similar fate, Holbox is implementing environmentally friendly practices and mindful community-led experiences.
The Yum Balam nature reserve, which means Lord Jaguar in Maya, was established in the 90s and protects the 26-mile entire island. Signs in Spanish and English state the rules for interacting with flora, fauna, and the environment. They remind tourists never to touch coral or aquatic life, feed birds, litter, cut mangroves, or play loud music that will disturb wildlife. Hunting and campfires are prohibited, and fishing seasons must be observed. Posters around town are visual reminders of cuida tu isla no tires basura, meaning care for the island, don't litter. In May of 2019, the Quintana Roo state prohibited single-use plastics.
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Here’s how to travel mindfully to Holbox to preserve this paradise for future generations to enjoy:
➀ Stay in eco-conscious accommodation
The Holbox Hotel Association created a coalition of garbage collection companies that transport garbage off the island to proper landfills or recycling organizations. Association member Mystique Blue is a boutique resort with a chic rustic design meant to reflect the wild nature surrounding the beachfront property.
Mystique Blue banned single-use plastic before the new regulation and utilize eco-friendly alternatives. “We hope to reduce the negative impact on marine life by eliminating thousands of single-use plastics, including straws and plastic stirrers, from entering the ocean,” says General Manager Alberto Herrera.
The hotel sorts plastics, organics, and other recyclables, which are properly disposed of through the Association. Several bins are placed on the beach for guests to discard their organic waste, plastic bottles, and glass cans.
Guest rooms are equipped with cloth laundry bags and oxo-biodegradable trash bag liners. Toiletries are paraben-free, not tested on animals, and placed in oxo-biodegradable packaging. Cotton swabs and other necessities are packaged in eco-friendly paper made from stone and printed with soy ink.
➁ Opt for carbon-neutral transport
Walking the entire stretch of accessible land takes an hour. If you don’t have any mobility limitations, there’s no need to rent a golf cart. Holbox can easily be explored on foot, even in far-flung accommodations. You won’t regret going on moonlit strolls on the beach.
➂ Go birding
There are endless opportunities to encounter and observe wildlife on the island. Holbox is home to 420 species of endemic and migratory birds, such as flamingos, herons, yellow-lored parrots, pelicans, cormorants, and osprey hawks. Many live in conservation zones for birds which can only be observed from boats. VIP Holbox is a responsible tour operator taking guests to Passion Island, Isla Pajaros, and Yalahau Spring.
➃ Contribute to the animal shelter
The Refugio Holbox animal shelter cares for animals that have been mistreated, abandoned, and injured. Local vets provide complimentary consultations and treatments. Tourists are welcome to visit and lend a hand in preparing food, cleaning, bathing dogs, walking dogs, or playing with the animals. Wild animals are released after rehabilitation, and domesticated animals are available for adoption.
“A short quote can be here to emphasize something important.”
➄ See why Holbox’s moniker is Graffiti Island
Around every corner is a colorful wall-sized mural depicting local life, sea creatures, and flowers. The street art initiative was organized by the International Public Art Festival. The project, Dreaming for Holbox, depicts residents’ vibrant dreams on the walls of their town. The murals promote cultural exploration, environmental preservation, and beautification of public spaces. Search for pieces by Mexican artist Hilda Palafox.
➅ Swim with whale sharks
Whale sharks are majestic creatures. Unfortunately, they’re a vulnerable species. Despite being the largest fish in the sea, they glide gently through the ocean. Some reach up to 30 feet long and weigh 20 tons. From May to September, they feed on algae, plankton, and krill in the nutrient-rich water where the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico meet.
Holbox is one of the only places to swim with whale sharks ethically. It’s perfectly safe to observe and swim alongside the docile fish. Government-mandated regulations protect the gentle giants from irresponsible tourists. Swimmers must wear life jackets, and only two guests and one certified guide are allowed in the water at a time. People must stay six feet away from the fish and never touch them. Boats are equipped with propeller protectors to prevent injuring whale sharks, and mineral-based SPF is encouraged. Only 80,000 visitors are allowed to swim with whale sharks during the season.
Eco Colors began offering whale shark swims two decades ago and have been recognized by The Nature Conservancy for their tours led by marine biologists. Holbox Whale Shark Tours consults with World Wildlife Fund to promote sustainable excursions. Many whale shark tours also stop for snorkeling at Cabo Catoche, which is home to nurse sharks, sea stars, manta rays, and sea turtles.
➆ Indulge in leisure activities
The Instagram-famous Holbox sign in the center of town always has a queue of people waiting to snap a photo. Skip those and take a stroll on the beach towards Punta Coco until you find the perfect over-water hammock to take a snooze. There are plenty of beach hammocks and swings near Carolinda’s Beach Club. If you have finished your book, you could trade it for a new one from the suitcase full of books at Ensueño Holbox.
➇ Chow down on plant-based meals
Holbox is a haven for plant-based eaters. Pant-forward versions of traditional Mexican dishes such as mole enchiladas and agua frescas are available at Arte Sano. Painapol serves gigantic superfood smoothie bowls with seasonal fruits in an open-air garden. If you’re after vegan cheese, you’ll love the quesadillas at Amaranto. For a heartier meal, indulge in the vegan pasta and cheesecake at Los Peleones.